David Walker Bell, with Winefolio, wrote a wonderful feature on our 20th Vintage celebration with Malcolm Rees-Francis this past week. Within he reviewed each of the 16 Pinot Noirs that were tasted that day. Read select highlights below or the full article is linked below.
"Over two decades, Rockburn has built an international reputation for producing elegant, expressive, and terroir-driven Pinot Noir. The consistency of awards and accolades speaks volumes to Malcolm’s deep understanding of vineyard, climate, and his craft. i tend to think of the ‘Estate’ Pinot as one of those wines that you would give to someone – a visitor from overseas for example – who had never had a Central Otago Pinot Noir. You would explain it as ‘quintessential Central Pinot”...
Rockburn Estate Pinot Noir 2015 A mid-ruby colour in the glass. Vibrant fruit, with cherry compote, orange rind and ‘bitters’. Smooth and ripe with a palate that develops into a silky texture. Supple, gentle tannin providing an excellent foil to that lush fruit and a rich, long finish.
Rockburn Estate Pinot Noir 2023 A pretty nose showing dark cherry, damson, mint, thyme and lilac florals. Well-balanced with a delightful savoury element too – tapenade, espresso bean and mushroom. Tannin is supple, the whole thing fine and tight...
The ‘Barrels’ range of wines come from a desire to keep the separate parcels of fruit apart to demonstrate in the glass the particular definitions of each vineyard. Over time, Malcolm will examine all the barrels, tasting away, and making marks on each as he goes. As such, the ‘number of barrels’ varies from vintage to vintage.
Rockburn Eight Barrels 2006 Some age showing in the colour – a ruddy burgundy in the glass. Good secondary notes in the bouquet as well, with a funky, meaty barnyard-ness alongside the cherry, damson, redcurrant, orange peel and rose petal florals. There is also something not unlike ripe peach on the nose as well – complex and intriguing. A solid spine of tannin and acidity persists in this near 20-year old. My favourite on the day...
Rockburn Eleven Barrels 2019 Damson, thyme, morello cherry, redcurrant and rosehip syrup in the bouquet. Medium-bodied – a saturation of bloody, ripe flavours with some savoury, dried herbs, black tea and roasted carrot flavours. Zesty acidity and a stony minerality adds complexity.
Rockburn Seven Barrels 2016 is the expression from Gibbston, using Malcolm’s favourite barrels. A deliciously balanced wine with a deep generosity through the palate. Secondary characters are starting to show already, with mushroom, oolong tea and old leather.
Malcolm used to say that there was a market for ‘big Pinot’ and he was happy to make one to suit that audience. It is a little in the direction of Syrah, with a few tricks of the trade to build it the way it is. When I travelled to the UK last year and could only take a handful of bottles to share with friends and family – I took a bottle of ‘The Art’ as I thought it would do the job. It didn’t disappoint. The fruit comes from Bannockburn – offering up another picture of Central Otago.
Rockburn The Art Pinot Noir 2010 is certainly ‘big’ but this is also quite serious and studied. The spine of oak, acidity and tannin seems well-integrated, and I get a fine tension through the palate. Baking spices, chalky minerality, and a seasoning of pepper. Quite hedonistic and with a dry, zesty finish.
Rockburn The Art Pinot Noir 2016 is the very vintage I took overseas! An expressive nose filled with doris plum, blackberry, campari and thyme, alongside distinctive cinnamon and green peppercorn notes. Full bodied and concentrated, lush fruit is girdled in tight, dense tannins with a full extraction grip. Round and polished with a seam of well integrated, but palpable oak; around the dense juicy core."
Read David's full reviews on Winefolio
